The Writing Project · Zakynthos

A Morning Walk around Kalamáki

We parked on the edge of Kalamáki near the beachfront hotel that probably wouldn’t get planning permission anymore, and walked around it to get to Crystal Beach. Had the hotel taken its name from the beach, or vice versa? With the sun right in our faces, we tramped along the sand, appreciating the fact that there wasn’t… Continue reading A Morning Walk around Kalamáki

The Writing Project · Zakynthos

Athens to Zakynthos, via the Peloponnese

We arrived in Zakynthos by the front door, at the beginning of April, the end of orange season. To fly in, as we sometimes do, is to skulk in through the servants' entrance. We sailed into Zakynthos harbour this time like pirates, boots up on the gunwale, telescopes out. We’d flown into Greece the night… Continue reading Athens to Zakynthos, via the Peloponnese


Salzburg on a shoestring with two kids, in two days: part 1

There's a lot to see in Salzburg; experts have calculated you'd need a good 5 and a half days to see it all. We had two. So we had to skip stuff, obviously. Like men, women, and children at an 'all-you-can-eat-buffet' with only 10 minutes to go before the restaurant closes, we had to be strategic about our gluttony. But… Continue reading Salzburg on a shoestring with two kids, in two days: part 1



I’ve been watching Viennese people. They probably think that, as a tourist, I’m looking at the Hofburg Imperial Palace or Schloss Schönbrunn, but I’m looking at them. What’s more, I take photographs of them surreptitiously. In my defense, if I didn’t use subterfuge it wouldn’t really be possible at all. Es ist meine Lieblingsbeschäftigung, my… Continue reading Wieners


The Four Danubes of Vienna

Before landing in Koukla House, Greece, to start writing our book (that’s ‘The Zakynthos Project’) we’re spending a chilly month in Austria as Help Exchange guests with a family from Donaustadt, just outside Wien (Vienna). We’re settling in nicely in our Viennese hosts' house, hitting our stride by doing household jobs, helping Silvia and Pauls’ kids… Continue reading The Four Danubes of Vienna